Surfing is arguably one of the most popular extreme sports in the world. It’s kind of hard to be a beginner skydiver, but you can be a beginner surfer. With different levels of commitment – and adventure – possible with surfing, the advanced surfer may want to know ways to have more of an adrenaline rush on the surf.
LOCATION – LOCATION – LOCATION
Aside from your skill level, most of your surfing experience will be affected by your choice of surf. To get the adrenaline pumping, you need big waves. But, they can’t just be big – they have to be dangerous, too. If you’re planning to take on some of these locations, your going to need to make sure you take surfing lessons!
One of the biggest, most dangerous waves you can find is in Oahu. The North Shore Banzai Pipeline is almost legendary as the most deadly wave on the planet. More people have died surfing this wave than on any other in the world. In fact, in 2005 and 2004, it claimed the lives of some of the most famous surfers and surf photographers. The heavy wave of the Pipeline breaks right off of the beach of Oahu, right over a jagged reef. Powerful lefts and rights, and barely controlled lip-launching are characteristic of this surf spot.
The heaviest waves of the coast of California is at Ghost Trees. Cold water and great whites combine to make these dangerous waters, and, combined with boulders along the shore and the bottom of the surf area, you have a challenge ahead of you. But these waves will reach 80 feet before they break with all of the power of the North Pacific. 20 foot wide boils charge out of the face of the breaking wave, and you’d better know what you’re doing when you tackle this right-handed surf.
Half Moon Bay, also in Northern California, is another right-hand break surf. With temperatures in the 40s and huge great white sharks surfing along with you, it’s one of the most dangerous surfs in the world. The Mavericks has brutal, thick lips that pitch off of the boil, and hit has hollow spots, ledges, and the waves (and sharks) can hit you like a freight train.
Teahupoo IN Tahiti is often seen as perhaps in the top 5 of the most challenging breaks on the planet. About ½ mile out in the ocean, you’ll find top heavy waves that break to the left. If the size of the lip doesn’t scare you, the coral reef below you will. The wave itself is unique at Teahupoo. As it swells, it doubles onto itself. It’s one of the heaviest waves you can surf.
For a neck-breaking shorebreak and 60 foot waves, you can’t beat Waimea. It’s just down the coast from Pipeline, and has taken its toll on famous surfers. They still hold the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational there for a reason. Even though the tow-surfers have taken over, you’ll still find that these big waves will get your adrenaline pumping faster than you ever thought possible.